The 3-element 20 meter yagi that I recently built now has a sibling for 15 meters. As previously related, both are meant to replace the TH6 pointing south. The tower work is planned for completion before CQ WW SSB at the end of October.
This antenna is not simply a scaled version of the 20 meter antenna. There are differences that are worth a discussion. Nothing was purchased for this antenna since all parts come from my stock, just like for the 20 meter yagi. Other than ⅝" and ½" tubes, all of the aluminum tubes and plates come from discarded yagis that are decades old.
Limiting myself to what I had in stock imposed constraints on the mechanical design, which in turn affected the electrical design. There are asymmetries that made it difficult to use NEC2 for the model, which I prefer to NEC5 for conventional yagis. With some work I was able to achieve good agreement between both calculating engines for the gain and pattern, but not quite for the impedance. The last isn't surprising and is not critical since the matching network at the feed point is adjustable. As for the 20 meter yagi, the model uses a hairpin (beta) match since it easier to model than the gamma match that is actually being used.
Element taperFrom my stock I selected 3 centre pieces that consist of a 1-⅛" tube pierced by a 1" tube. The faded marks were there originally and indicate that at least two of these came from a 15 meter yagi. One of the centre sections is longer so I used it for the reflector, the longest element. Dimples rather than hardware prevent movement of the 1" within the larger one. That's unusual but I've seen it used several times in very old antennas. There were no defects to speak of so I left them as is.
The ends of the 1" tubes came with slits, stainless hose clamps and self-tapping screws to secure the nested ⅞" tube. I removed the screws, drilled through that small hole and out the other side of the tube for #8 stainless screws and nylocs. I reused the hose clamps rather than replace them with #8 hardware.
The ¾" tubes were already secured to the ⅞" tubes with the metal strapping described in the construction article for the 20 meter yagi. I cut those off for the DE since the combined ¾" & ⅞" sections were of unequal length. Swapping tubes resulted is nearly equal length sections. This kept the DE centre of gravity at element centre (over the boom) and enabled EZNEC's SDC (stepped diameter correction) in the NEC2 engine which requires element symmetry. NEC5 doesn't have this sensitivity, requiring neither symmetry nor SDC.
For the tips, a 1' length of new ⅝" tube is inserted into the end of the ¾" tube. The tip are ½" tubes. The first picture in this article shows the assembled elements without the tips. I avoided adding tips until the design met my objectives. The equivalent diameter of the element-to-boom clamps is 2.7" using the W6NL equation for a tube resting on a plate. The boom and hardware have a effect small enough to be ignored during design and construction.
Unlike for the 20 meter yagi the elements are not isolated from the boom. There are no destructive interactions with the antennas near where I plan to place it on the tower.
The final taper schedule of the half elements is as follows, skipping over the element-to-boom clamps. Dimensions are distance from element centre, not the lengths of the tubes:
- 1-⅛": 6" (D and DE), 9"(R)
- 1": 24.5" (D), 25 (DE), 26" (R)
- ⅞": 64.5" (D), 76.5" and 65" (DE), 77.5" (R)
- ¾": 104.5" (D), 116.5" (DE), 128.9" (R)
- ⅝": 113.5" (D), 125.5" (DE), 138" (R)
- ½": 127.5" (D), 130.1" (DE), 146.4" (R)
This is obviously not what an antenna builder would choose when using new tubes. I simply worked with what I had. Aluminum isn't cheap. The lengths of the ½" tips are for my final design, which is discussed in the next section. There were many iterations to get what I wanted.
Design and model
As you may recall from the 3-element 20 meter yagi design, I tried to keep the "spread" between the director and reflector as small as possible to maximize gain. That is, the square root of the ratio of their self-resonant frequencies. High gain increases antenna Q so there is a trade off with the SWR bandwidth. To keep solid state amplifiers happy the SWR should be below 2 across the band, and preferably better than 1.5.
To achieve this across the 350 kHz of the 20 meter band for the selected boom length and element taper schedule I eventually had to settle on a spread of 8%; that is, the director and reflector self-resonant frequencies are approximately 8% above and below the design centre frequency, respectively (see above). It is possible to do better on 15 meters since, although the band is 450 kHz wide, there is a smaller proportionate range due to the higher frequency. 450 kHz at 21 MHz is 2% while 350 kHz at 14 MHz is 2.5%. That seemingly smaller bandwidth permits a tighter spread, and thus higher gain, for the same SWR bandwidth.
After iterations with a 15 mm constant diameter wires on a 15.5' (4.7 m) boom it was possible to achieve the SWR bandwidth objective for a 7% spread. The raw boom length of 16' is proportional to the 24' boom on 20 meters, with several inches on each side reserved for the width of the element-to-boom clamps. The SWR bandwidth was about the same for a model with the above element taper schedule using NEC5. That's the plot shown here, using a beta match and a 7% spread.
Then I had a boom problem. Although I have lots of 2" boom material, the tubes were all 9' or longer. I hate waste so I didn't want to cut any of them. Since 16' isn't very long I decided to make an 18' boom. That increases the boom from 0.33λ to 0.37λ, measured from reflector to director. Since gain is in proportion to boom length the gain also increases. It isn't a lot but every fraction of a decibel counts, in this case from 0.2 to 0.3 db.
After tuning the elements in the model the SWR bandwidth was preserved and the gain increased across the 15 meter band. The only downside is less F/B, losing between 3 and 5 db. That did not surprise me since, unlike gain, F/B tends to have a cyclical pattern as the boom lengthens. For those who cherish F/B it is important to choose boom length with care.
F/B rarely concerns me as a contester since I want to work stations off the back of the beam. Less F/B means that more stations hear me. It's to my advantage. For an occasionally used yagi fixed south to work contest multipliers it's even less of a concern. Look at a map of my location and you'll see that there is little likelihood of QRM off the back (north).
For the final design the placement of the elements on the boom, with the reflector position at 0, the DE is at 93" (236 cm) and the director at 210" (533 cm). Moving the DE a few inches could improve the pattern or gain, but only slightly. Therefore I didn't both to optimize further. Had this been a more important antenna I would have taken the time.
The SWR has barely changed with the longer boom, with a just a small increase at 21.45 MHz. This plot was done with NEC2 and EZNEC's SDC after making the elements symmetric in the model. The NEC5 plot is the same but due to the differences in the engines the modelled impedances are not quite equal. For the purpose of the plot it wasn't worthwhile to adjust the model's beta match to compensate. The small impedance difference is not important since the range of the gamma match can accommodate it.
NEC5 typically needs many more segments for the impedance to converge to its true value. I did not test to determine whether that was the cause of the difference in this model.
My final caution with modelling and building yagis is that you should trust the tools. I am frequently amazed (and amused) by how many hams like to denigrate modelling software and would rather stumble along with their antenna projects, trying to convince themselves (and others) how great their antennas are. It's nonsense.
NEC5 in particular and NEC2 when coupled with SDC are remarkably accurate. Believe the results and build your yagi exactly as in the model. Every fraction of inch makes a difference, even at HF. Don't guess! Measure and cut per the model, and when you can't (as for some of the tubes in this model), enter the model data exactly to the tube measurements. For HF yagis each tube should match the model to within ¼". At the very least ensure that the half element lengths are within that tolerance.
For example, my initial design had 6" lengths of ⅝" (3" nested and 3" projecting). That was to conserve my dwindling stock of ⅝" × 0.058" tubes. I later went with 12" lengths (9" projecting) and reduced the ½" tips by the same amount. The frequency shift of the yagi was significant. You might not notice it in practice since gain is very difficult to measure. But it makes a difference so you should strive to get it right. All the element half lengths had to change by about ½" (1" total per element) to return the model to where I wanted it.
Assembly and various supports
Unlike the 3-element 20 meter yagi, the boom is shorter and lighter and therefore amenable to a simpler solution for joining the two 9' section of 2" × 1/16" tubes. Digging through my junk box I found a spare Hy-Gain boom coupler. Although the aluminum alloy is thin wall it has served well on their large line of HF yagis over many decades. I don't know where this one came from.
The coupler is 10" (25 cm) long and is designed for 2" tubes. I've used these Hy-Gain clamps in the past on 1.9" OD pipes so it can handle a small range of sizes, provided both tubes are the same diameter. There are 2 through bolts and 4 clamp bolts, all sized for 5/16" hardware. The other 4 holes are for Hy-Gain two-piece mast clamp. I didn't have one of those handy so I made a mating plate from 3/16" steel.
The 4 inner holes for the mast clamp are arranged in a 3" square. The through-holes for the tubes are 4" apart and centered on the square. I drilled ⅝" holes for the projecting through-bolts. I could have made cutouts around those holes but drilling holes is easier and leaves a little material on the sides for added strength. The plate could be made a little wider than the 5" seen here. The antenna is small and light enough that I deemed this to be sufficient.
The reason that I used steel was that I was running low on aluminum plate of suitable size and thickness. Steel is cheap and strong so I picked up a 6" × 3/16" remnant I saw while waiting for other steel stock to be cut to size for other projects. The downsides are that it is more difficult to machine than aluminum and it requires a rust protection coating. It's routine for me from my long time building towers and antennas. I plan to make a similar plate for the recently completed 20 meter yagi.
The holes for the galvanized saddle clamps are also 5/16". The 6" height leaves ⅞" on top and bottom, to leave enough space between the mast clamps and the Hy-Gain boom clamp, which is 4-½" high. The holes for the u-bolts were set after selecting the saddle clamps. Be careful because there is no reliable standard for u-bolts and saddle clamps for the same size tubes or pipes. Don't guess, measure.
When making custom antenna hardware it is important to carefully consider the placement of all hardware before cutting the metal and drilling the holes. It helps to be able to think in 3-dimensions. Loosely lay all the parts per the design to find any conflicts. You could end up saving a lot of time and material!Which direction you orient the bolts can matter. I placed the heads of all the 5/16" bolts on the plate side of the assembly to avoid interference with the clamps. Also, lock washers should always be on a flat surface, not a round one. If you must place the nut on a round surface it is better to use a nyloc or jam nut. Most of the bolts are stainless for easier maintenance should it be required.
The motley selection of element-to-boom clamps are due to what I had available in my junk box. I couldn't be bothered to go to the trouble of making better clamps for this lightweight yagi.
The u-bolts for the director and DE (top two in the picture) use formed threaded rod. I've seen this construction method on antennas made 40 or more years ago. That's useful for custom sizing but otherwise a really bad idea. Tempered steel is weakened by bending and milder steel that can be formed in this fashion may not be of sufficient tensile strength. It is also difficult to get a consistent radius of curvature. But, again, the antenna is small and they were in my junk box so I used them. For the longer reflector I selected an element clamp with conventional galvanized and plated saddle clamps.
The gamma match comes from an ancient 15 meter yagi so it has suitable dimensions. The 7/16" gamma rod is 5" from the DE (centre-to-centre). I cut the insulated support bar from an ABS pipe. The coax connector is on a 1" aluminum bar, the wire from which is bonded to a short piece of the same ABS. The RG213 centre conductor for the gamma capacitor is not present in the picture. It will be cut to size during testing and tuning then soldered to the wire and sealed. The 3 u-bolts on the DE are from my stock of stainless hardware.
It looks nice when assembled in the hay field. Its measured weight is 27 lb (12 kg). The boom truss will be dacron rope to be tensioned by hand rather than turnbuckles. I prefer to avoid steel truss cables for side mounted yagis to avoid unpredictable resonances of the total system that might destructively interact with nearby rotatable yagis.
Next steps
There is as yet no tower bracket for this antenna. That is nearing completion in my workshop. Since the testing of the 3-element 20 meter yagi went so well and this one is similar I skipped doing a separate test and tuning of the yagi. I'll install the new bracket, tram the yagi onto it and then test and tune it. The gamma match is easily accessed from the tower since the DE on a 3-element yagi is near the centre of the antenna.
There will also be a need for antenna switching since there are no spare ports on the 2 × 8 switch. An auxiliary switch is being made to switch the transmission line for the 15 meter stack to the 3-element south yagi. Antennas for the same band to not need to be simultaneously accessible. I considered putting the relay and port on the 15 meter stack switch but it is already crowded inside. The switch will be installed on the tower close to the upper end of the Heliax transmission line.
The new yagi will be raised by early October, and then the switch built and installed. I will have more to say about these when the job is done.






















